the moveable feasts

Rhubarb-Grapefruit Marmalade

with 16 comments

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I must admit, I honestly and truly don’t even know what rhubarb really tastes like. Yes, I’ve had my fair share of strawberry-rhubarb crumbles, or the rhubarb-raspberry flavor cousin in the form of a jamy crostata or a big crumb coffee cake. I know its a little bitter and even a bit sour, from the bites I get of it of said rhubarb-raspberry-or-strawberry treats. I always like whatever it’s in, including this jam here. But in terms of what its flavor actually is, I’ve no idea.

peeled, minced grapefruit zest

While we’re at it, I might as well tell you that I’m not really even sure what one is suppose to call this… spread. Luisa, where I got the recipe from, calls it preserves, I’ve been calling it a jam because frankly any type of fruit boiled down with a shocking amount of sugar is a jam to me, and Wikipedia is telling me it’s technically a marmalade. I am not choosing to go with Wikipedia because I trust it more than Luisa Weiss or Alice Waters (quite the opposite, probably), but I think I finally decided to call it a marmalade because the tart grapefruit peel, minced up and speckled throughout, just makes it feel more marmalade-y to me than anything else.

So I guess what I’m figuring out here is that, for some reason, I intuitively know what marmalade is suppose to taste like, but if you asked me what the flavor of rhubarb is, I would stare at you with a blank, clueless face? Woo boy I am just killing it today with the eloquence!

squeeze in the juice
pre-maceration post-maceration

Anyway, I didn’t know what to expect when I was making this. The ingredients are rhubarb, an ingredient of which my situation is embarrassingly noted above, and grapefruit, a citrus that I only really take to about half the time I eat it. And together? It just sounded, I don’t know, a little weird. I’m not sure what happened, but somewhere between dumping all that sugar to soak with the grapefruit juice and rhubarb and having it bubble and hiss down to a thick consistency, a delicious jam, or ermm, marmalade was born. Somehow, the flavors just work. It’s not overly tart and not at all bitter like a lot of orange marmalades I’ve tried, but it doesn’t have that cloying sweetness of something like strawberry jam. It’s a little hard to describe, so you might just have to trust me (if you can, after reading this post!)–it’s interesting, and awesome.

on big sur bakery hide rolls

I made some of this bread to go with it (and is what you see featured in the above picture when I was trying it out with the marmalade), hoping for an awesome double-packed post, but something about that bread fell flat with me. This is most likely my fault, because I was in the mood for something pillowy and yeasty to top my marmalade with, and a quick soda bread that baked up to be dense and hard was probably not the right choice for that. Especially when paired with the marmalade, the dominant nutty and flax-flavored flavor of the bread just clashed with the sweet marmalade. The marmalade was, however, pretty awesome the following day when I topped my pancakes with a dollop of it. It also sounds perfect with some warm cream biscuits, or even just a single scoop as is from the jar.

marmalade

Rhubarb-Grapefruit Marmalade
Slightly adapted from Alice Waters and The Wednesday Chef
Makes about four cups

I halved the recipe and as a result didn’t process it, seeing as I am pretty sure that jar you see above is going to be empty within the next week or two. 

2 pounds rhubarb, rinsed
2 grapefruit, rinsed and scrubbed
3 1/2 cups sugar

Cut the rhubarb into about 1/2-inch slices. Peel the zest of one of the grapefruits using a vegetable peeler or a paring knife, and mince into very fine pieces. Place the rhubarb slices, the minced zest and the sugar in a large sturdy pot and juice both of the grapefruits into the pot. Let this mixture stand for at least half an house, but preferably for a couple hours or even overnight, in order for the sugar to dissolve and the rhubarb to release its juice (this is where the flavor magic happens, I think, so don’t skip it).

Place a small plate in the freezer. This will be used to more accurately test the “doneness” of the jam by its consistency. Bring the pot of fruit to a boil over high heat, stirring every once in awhile to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom. Once it starts boiling it will bubble up high on the sides of the pot, so beware. While the fruit mixture is bubbling, skim off any light-tinted foam that gathers around the edges of the pot. After about maybe ten minutes, more or less, the jam will subside and start bubbling thickly. At this point (you’ll know when it happens), stir frequently and start testing for the consistency by taking small spoonfuls of the jam and putting it on the cold plate. It quickly cools the sample, so you get a better sense at what the finished consistency will be. This test is helpful– your jam will look a lot less loose and liquidy than how it will be when it sets up.

When the jam has cooked down to the consistency of your liking (for me it was a couple minutes after the “subside and bubble thickly” part occurred), turn off the heat and carefully pour the jam into sterilized jars and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

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Written by Amy

April 19, 2012 at 8:31 pm

16 Responses

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  1. Ha! I guess we’ve both been playing with grapefruits and sugar this week! I made a grapefruit-vanilla jelly today. It set up a little too firmly, so I might have to pour it back into the pot and play around with it a little bit more (I have further plans for my jelly). Your marmalade looks gorgeous though! I’m having difficulty picturing the flavour, but I guess that’s all the more reason to try it out. I’ll keep an eye out for rhubarb.

    Katie

    April 19, 2012 at 8:54 pm

    • Oh I hope this is for another momofuku creation? Can’t wait to hear about it! And yeah I definitely couldn’t imagine the flavor either… who knows what gave me the confidence to make it, haha. Glad I did though.

      Amy

      April 20, 2012 at 7:25 am

      • Not quite. It’ll be a mashup of something I found in Bon Appetit and something I’ve been meaning to make from Tartine Bread. Just need to finish writing a paper first…

        Katie

        April 20, 2012 at 7:26 am

  2. Haha, love this post! I have no idea what rhubarb tastes like either. Did you try it plain, before you dunked it in the sugar bath? Does it have the consistency of celery? I agree with your decision to call it marmalade, because anytime citrus enters the jam scene it just feels right. I hope I can find some grapefruits in the market so I can make this this weekend. Great post.

    talley

    April 19, 2012 at 9:13 pm

    • I didn’t! Okay this is really embarrassing but up until now I assumed you couldn’t eat rhubarb “raw.” Like it’s toxic or something in that state. Haha! I think it is similar to celery… but oh well maybe I’ll have to find out its true taste some other time!

      Amy

      April 20, 2012 at 7:26 am

      • Okay a couple things. 1) I made this marmalade and I LOVE it. It is just the right balance of tart and sweet. I am going to learn how to perserve/can so I can make a batch before rhubarb and grapefruits head out of the markets for good. 2) I tried the rhubarb, it was awful, I spit it out. ICK. You are right about the toxic part, the broad leaves are toxic, but I think the stalk is fine. I don’t recommend it, best to bathe rhubarb in a healthy amount of sugar.

        talley

        April 24, 2012 at 9:27 am

  3. I love rhubarb but have never thought of combining it with grapefruit, what a perfect sounding combination!

    Kathryn

    April 20, 2012 at 12:30 am

  4. I love the taste of rhubarb but can see how you might never have tasted it – it’s so often paired with other flavours! This marmalade, jam or whatever it is looks rather lovely…and sorry you weren’t happy with your bread, I think it looks yummy!

    thelittleloaf

    April 20, 2012 at 12:37 am

  5. Amy, just wanted to let you know I made and blogged about your fruit crumble bars today—they were fabulous!

  6. Aww – look at you making jam (um marmalade!). You are going to be fulfilling your dream of the stock day/ bread day/ spread day in no time.
    I have to admit I’m not really a fan of any jam except strawberry (have you had St Dalfour..??) but if I was, I would totally trust you. You know your food friend… all recipes tried have been AMAZING! Have a great weekend!!

    Em (Wine and Butter)

    April 20, 2012 at 7:02 am

    • Haha Em that’s EXACTLY what I was thinking while I was making it! I was like, “man now I just need to work on all those other days…” haha. And thanks, have a great weekend too!

      Amy

      April 20, 2012 at 7:28 am

  7. This sounds like a perfect combination! If only rhubarb were easily findable in California…

    Eileen

    April 20, 2012 at 4:04 pm

  8. Haha this post made me laugh. Rhubarb is always combined with strawberries, isn’t it? In pies and in jam. You’re right. I honestly don’t know what it tastes like on it’s own either. And like you, I’ve never eaten it raw…always cooked down with lots of sugar. I might have to remedy that this spring. I’ll see what I come up with. But grapefruit with rhubarb sounds great. I love your jam/marmalade/spreadable stuff you’ve got goin on here.

    greenthyme

    April 20, 2012 at 4:30 pm

  9. Talley — So glad you liked it! I think the tart/sweet balance is spot on with it too. And thanks for being the sacrificial one and trying it out so that now I don’t have to. ;) Good to know that sugar cures all ills when it comes to this.

    Amy

    April 24, 2012 at 10:22 am

  10. Just happened upon your site while looking for another recipe. Yes – you can eat rhubarb raw (and no, don’t eat the leaves). I grew up with rhubarb plants in the back yard. We would take the stalks and eat them like celery. Similar consistency, but with the extremely tart rhubarb taste. To “take the edge off” (yes, it’s that tart), we would dip the end of the stalk in sugar, then eat. The only thing I can equate it to would be a granny smith apple that wasn’t quite ripe, but you took a bite out of anyway.

    I love both ingredients in the marmalade – would never thought to put the two together. Thanks!

    John

    February 16, 2013 at 6:50 am

    • Thanks for commenting, John. I grew up eating huckleberries mashed with sugar, and even that was a bit tart for me… can’t imagine eating rhubarb like celery!

      And yeah, it makes for a really interesting and great marmalade. Cheers!

      Amy

      February 16, 2013 at 11:40 am


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