the moveable feasts

Rosemary Focaccia

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Chewy, soft, bubbly, delicious focaccia

I’m not sure about you, but I experience what I’m going to call “foodie guilt” during the summers. It’s that sensation when you know you should be eating those plump tomatoes or those always-growing-more-giant zucchini and squashes that you can only truly find during the summertime, when all you’re really wanting to make is something that isn’t dependent on the season. You know, like regular, old chocolate chip cookies or that orange chocolate chunk cake.  And seeing as I’m one of those people that gets all giddy and excited about anything seasonal or festive, I tend to feel pretty guilty when this happens.

I do have one exception, though: focaccia. Despite the fact that making this bread requires the oven to be preheated to 500 degrees, and its ingredients of flour, water and yeast are available any time of the year, I still always, always see focaccia as a summertime food. I’m not sure why, but I think it might have something to do with the idea I get in my head that it makes nice picnic food. When I first made this recipe last summer, I packed the loaves up in a plastic bag and met my boyfriend and his friend at the beach. For our lunch we just snacked on the foccacia in the sunshine, all pretty happy about it.

It just seems like the perfect summer snack, with its chewy, salty bite, with the crisp outside of the bread and soft inside. Nothing but pure, delicious flavors of the bread itself, olive oil, salt and a little bit of rosemary. This year I’ve been a little bit of a cheat–not really having to put up with a 500 degree oven in the middle of summertime heat due to the fact that Washington refuses almost on a daily basis to reach temperatures beyond 70 degrees. But still. It’d be worth it even if it were 100 degrees outside. (I cannot really attest to this as I haven’t really done it, but it’s nice to imagine this bread is worth any weather.) Anyway, make this, enjoy it, and savor whatever type of summer you’re having.

Done! Again, again!

Here is a bit of a something “step-by-step” process of the technique developed by Cook’s Illustrated to make this bread, something I don’t usually do but this one’s a little elaborate. The full, explained recipe follows below. The directions sounds a little fussy, what with waiting around a half and hour here, 15 minutes there, now turn it this way, that way, blah blah blah. But it’s easy, and if you’re going to be sitting around in or around your house all day anyway, why not produce some lovely focaccia while you’re at it?

The Biga. You let it sit overnight, which allows the “biga” (aka starter) develops a wonderful flavor.


Some stirring, waiting, salting, stirring, and more waiting. On this note though, don’t skip the the step that requires you to wait 15 minutes before adding the salt. As Cook’s explains it, this helps to develop the gluten better, and results in a much more “supple and smooth” dough. They weren’t lying.

Just breadin' Saltin'

Between three rises, fold the dough over-onto itself, one turn every 90 degrees for 8 turns each (meaning each corner of the dough she be flopped over a total of two times). This sound annoyingly overdone, but the flavor really did develop beautifully as they promised, so I’m not going to the be the first to rock the boat.

Fold, dough, fold!

Flop it out, divide it, rub and place in pre-heavily-oiled and salted cake pans. This allows for that wonderful, crunchy and flavorful outside. Sprinkle with rosemary.

Bubbly Put the rosemary in Rosemary Focaccia


Still not sure if I'm gonna keep you, picture

Rosemary Focaccia
From Cook’s Illustrated
Makes 2 9-inch round loaves

1/2 cup (2 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup (2 2/3 ounces) warm water (100-110 degrees F)
1/4 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

2 1/2 cups (12 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for shaping
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) warm water (100-110 degrees F)
1 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
kosher salt
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

For the biga, combine the 1/2 cup flour, 1/3 cup water, and 1/4 teaspoon yeast in large bowl and stir with wooden spoon until uniform mass forms and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature (about 70 degrees) overnight (at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.) Use immediately or store in refrigerator for up to 3 days (allow to stand at room temperature 30 minutes before proceeding with recipe.)

For the dough, stir the remaining flour, water, and yeast into biga with wooden spoon until uniform mass forms and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature for 15 minutes.

Sprinkle 2 teaspoons salt over dough; stir into dough until thoroughly incorporated, about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 30 minutes. Spray rubber spatula or bowl scraper with nonstick cooking spray; fold partially risen dough over itself by gently lifting and folding edge of dough toward middle. Turn bowl 90 degrees; fold again. Turn bowl and fold dough 6 more times (total of 8 turns). Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 30 minutes. Repeat folding, turning, and rising 2 more times, for total of three 30-minute rises. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, place baking stone on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees at least 30 minutes before baking.

Gently transfer dough to lightly floured counter. Lightly dust top of dough with flour and divide in half (it might very well be very, very sticky and floppy. That’s okay, this dough is very forgiving). Shape each piece of dough into 5-inch round by gently tucking under edges. Coat two 9-inch round cake pans with 2 tablespoons olive oil each. Sprinkle each pan with ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Place round of dough in pan, top side down; slide dough around pan to coat bottom and sides, then flip over. Repeat with second piece of dough. Cover pans with plastic wrap and let rest for 5 minutes.

Using fingertips, press dough out toward edges of pan. (If dough resists stretching, let it relax for 5 to 10 minutes before trying again.) Using dinner fork, poke surface of dough 25 to 30 times, popping any large bubbles. Sprinkle rosemary evenly over top of dough. Let dough rest until slightly bubbly, 5 to 10 minutes.

Place pans on baking stone and reduce oven temperature to 450 degrees. Bake until tops are golden brown, 20 and 25 minutes, switching placement of pans halfway through baking. Transfer pans to wire rack and let cool 5 minutes. Remove loaves from pan and return to wire rack. Brush tops with any oil remaining in pan. Let cool 30 minutes before serving.

Written by Amy

August 12, 2011 at 8:00 am

Posted in Breads

Tagged with ,

12 Responses

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  1. I keep seeing recipes like these and going “Ah, I have to make that when I make the coach dinner for our anniversary!” So far I’m up to about three dishes, a drink, a dessert…and now your foccacia…that’s not too much for two people, right?


    August 12, 2011 at 2:53 pm

  2. Oooh I’ve never made a focaccia! I love all the how-to photos. This definitely looks better than the one I buy in the store. This would be a great rainy day thing to bake-I’m making note of that. Yum!


    August 12, 2011 at 3:15 pm

  3. Focaccia is the only bread I know how to make, This method is a little different from mine, and your photos make it look so great I will try this recipe. I like the idea of baking the bread in the pans, it seems to give them a nice, thick round shape and great crust..

    • Let me know how this one goes for you! I’ve only made this recipe twice but each time the bread has been fantastic. And I agree with you, I think the cake pans (especially when splashed with a lot of olive oil) shape the bread really well.


      August 12, 2011 at 5:22 pm

  4. I think your blog is wonderful. (: I experience foodie guilt too when all I crave for is a bar of kitkat. But focaccia, mmmm anytime! Ps, thanks for coming by my blog. U made my day!


    August 13, 2011 at 12:24 am

  5. I have foodie guilt, too – mainly because I’ve been craving a bowl of soup for the past few weeks but it’s way too hot here for soup. The focaccia looks wonderful – can’t wait to try it!


    August 14, 2011 at 7:52 am

  6. This turning the dough in the bowl technique for the focaccia sounds a lot like what I do when baking bread from Chad Robertson’s Tartine Bread, so I’m totally for it. Sure, it means you have to stay at home for a few hours, but it’s remarkable how a few turns every hour can do as much as vigorous kneading on the counter. The focaccia looks lovely, Amy.


    August 16, 2011 at 7:41 am

  7. OH this looks delicious. Bookmarking now!


    August 17, 2011 at 10:00 am

  8. I love this recipe. It is much simpler than it looks: I do the turning while I’m making something else, so it’s done before I know it. I don’t really worry about EXACTLY 30min. Sometimes more, sometimes a bit less.

    HOWEVER, mine keeps coming out way too runny, and the notion of ‘brush the remaining oil on the top’ is not going to happen. Mine sticks to the bottom and there is NO oil left. And I add the full 2 TBL. I think if my dough were thicker, then perhaps all of these problems would go away? Curious about other’s experience.

    Tana Kantor

    September 20, 2014 at 8:10 am

    • Tana, do you mean your dough is very soft and sticky? I would look at a couple things: the protein content of your flour (you want a good strong all purpose or bread flour like KA;) and whether you weigh your ingredients, because weighing is much more accurate and provides more predictable results. You might sprinkle the bottom of your greased pans with cornmeal, or use a round of parchment paper to prevent sticking. If your bread turns put delicious and well-textured that’s the main thing. :-)


      December 12, 2014 at 5:00 am

  9. Made this today and LOVED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I also like their other recipe by the same name from America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, which is a more flat bread. Speaking of it being like summertime, one of my favorite toppings is a fresh tomato and mozzarella one (from The Mixer Bible cookbook). There is no rosemary on top, but interestingly they did add 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary to the dough (their dough had 3 1/4 cups flour). To make the topping, you heat 2 Tbsp EVOO over low heat; add 2 thinly sliced gloves of garlic and 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, and cook, stirring, until the garlic is tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. After the dough has risen and is ready to bake, make shallow indentations all over the dough. Brush it with the garlic-rosemary oil, letting it pool into the indentations. Arrange slices of fresh tomato (1 large tomato, thinly sliced) and mozzarella (6 oz, sliced into 1/4 inch slices) and sprinkle lightly with coarse sea salt. Bake as directed. These quantities are for a 13 x 9-inch pan, so just divide them evenly between your two 9″ rounds for the CI recipe. Bon appetit!


    April 4, 2015 at 12:43 pm

  10. I tried this and it turned out delicious albeit a bit too dense. I tried to follow the recipe exactly, so not sure what I did wrong… Any thoughts? (Too much folding, flour, olive oil?) thanks in advance!


    January 18, 2016 at 12:50 pm

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